Winter plant protection tool box
Winter can be hard on plant material particularly if we have used some plants that are on the edge as far as cold hardiness. It is useful to have some tools or techniques to help those plants thrive.
- Late fall watering: It is important to water all evergreens, this get them fully hydrated and gives them a reserve. This is important because once the soil is frozen no more water can get to the roots and winter sun and wind pulls moisture out of the plant.
- Mulching (Shredded bark) : Keeps the soil around the plant more evenly moist, reduces heat and cold temperature fluctuation and promotes micro-organism in the soil.
- Pruning:Some plants like the pink spireas or Annabelle hydrangeas will have twig die back in spring, they will not do it in the pattern you will like. So pruning in late fall will direct the plants energies toward the part you would like to grow.
- Not Pruning: If you prune evergreens late in the season you expose foliage that has developed in the shade to the sun. This can cause desiccation / browning in the winter. Do only light pruning in fall and stop in mid-September.
- Evergreen boughs: Evergreen ground covers like pachysandra, euonymus, vinca and English Ivy can burn in winter. Putting a layer of evergreen boughs over them will keep winter sun and winter wind off the plants. They can be purchased garden centers in fall they normally goes on in late November and off in early April.
- Anti-desiccant sprays (Wilt Proof or similar): This is a spray you put on evergreens to reduce transpiration which will keep the plant happier and looking better. This normally goes on in November, but it has to go on when it is above 40 degrees and will stay there for 24 hour.
- Rings: A ring of hardware cloth or chicken wire 12-24″ high is put around the plant. Then the area is filled in with leaves, straw or very light compost. On in late November off in early April. This used for for non-hardy rose, Bigleaf Hydranga (Endless Summer, Nikko Blue or any maccrophylla) and Butterfly bush.
- Cone and covers: Putting a pre made cone over roses is fairly easy. The fine points, if you use styrafom put some holes in it, the will heat up on sunny days which is bad for the plant on the inside. Paper/cardboad cones are a better bet, they don’t heat up in winter. On in late November off in early April. Cut only as much rose off as is needed to get the cone on, finish the pruning in spring. Make sure the cone is secure to the ground in fall or it will blow away.
- Prussian tent/burlap wrap: This is a way to protect plants from wind and sun. Posts are installed around the plant or planting then burlap is stretch around the posts, the top is left open. This has the advantage of not damaging the plant as it is installed. Burlap can also be wrapped and tied directly to the plant to do the same thing. Care must be taken not to damage the plant, and a consideration for snow collecting on the burlap and weighing it down. On in late November off in early April.
